As much as tailoring is about the individual tastes and desires of the client, the styling, cut and overall look is often based on a foundation of a signature aesthetic, unique to each brand or house.
It’s taken us time, experimentation and confidence to establish our own house style; it’s an aesthetic that is timeless yet modern, abiding to traditional tailoring rules whilst pushing contemporary design.
I like a strong shoulder so we use a little padding for structure. I’ve always enjoyed the formality of British tailoring aesthetic and it’s a tradition I like to have running through our garments.
Sleeve pitch is important, I like to make sure there is a nice drape to the sleeve with little or no gathering at the front or back of the sleeve.
Our armholes are cut fairly high allowing for independent movement of the arm from the jacket body.
With the waist I like to nip it in slightly higher than the natural waist line and shape it into a flared seat or skirt. This gives a pleasing svelte shape however it’s tricky to get right; if the curve is too great it can give a feminine shape or look unbalanced against the shoulder.
I like our jackets to sit slightly higher than the traditional rules would suggest, giving a sleek contemporary fit. Again this is a difficult measurement to accomplish as we need to accommodate for different body shapes and lengths, balance is key here.
When it comes to styling it really is up to the individual. Although I do have my own tastes that often creep in. I like a wide peaked lapel, a good 4″ is wide enough for most people and a style that is growing in popularity.
Clashing textures and patterns is what we’ve become known for. The rule here is to change the scale, patterns can be mixed up as long as there is a tonal compliment as well as a difference in scale.
At the back, I favour a double vent. Personally I think it looks a bit more considered and lends itself to a more elegant shape on the wearer.
Between the outer fabric and the lining, there are various layers of canvas that help build the structure of the suit. We use a half canvas construction, meaning that a horse hair canvas is sewn into the chest and runs through the jacket to just below the pocket line.
The quality of the canvas and the way it’s hand sewn in gives our jackets that notable roll on the lapel and by canvasing half of the jacket, it gives some fluidity to the skirt as you move.
Our collars are turned back at the ends to hide any bespoke meltons and all our sleeve cuffs are working. We finish facings and lining with a scalloped edge to give a softer finish to the inside.
Our fabric range is sourced from the best mills around the UK. From classic wool suiting from Holland & Sherry of Savile Row, cashmere from Johnston’s of Elgin, Harris Tweed from the Outer Hebrides or ultra modern reflective cloth from Dashing Tweeds we have a curated offering of fabric to suit all occasions.
Working with local mills ensures transparency in production and supply chain. Curating a collection of high quality fabric from the best suppliers across the UK ensures that the range of designs on offer is vast yet restricted. Too much choice can be overwhelming so I like to keep our offering small but concise.
How will you style yours?
Our house style is popular because it’s modern and contemporary yet timelessly elegant. It really is up to the individual taste of the client in the end, with our advice merely as a guide or template.
If you would like to come in and see what we can do for you, get in touch or book an appointment to visit our Studio.